Acatenango Hike: Guide to Surviving Guatemala’s Infamous Volcano Hike
The Acatenango overnight hike lets you see an active volcano erupt, and for that reason, it’s one of the most popular things to do in Guatemala. I did it during my week in Guatemala, and it was one of the highlights of the trip.
I won’t lie though: I’m a marathoner and multi-day trekker, and hiking Acatenango was hard. All that said, plenty of less-experienced folks did the hike, and there are options for making it more manageable (or more challenging).
Here’s everything you need to know about the Acatenango Volcano hike in Guatemala. You can also check out my Reel and carousel for more info.
Fast Facts: Acatenango Volcano Hike
How long is the hike? How much elevation gain is there?
My watch tracked 11.6mi with 4888ft of gain (18.7km and 1500m of gain). This is including the optional sunrise hike to the peak of Acatenango, however. It would probably be closer to 9mi and 4300ft otherwise (15.3km and 1300m). It takes about 4-5 hours to reach base camp and 2.5-3 hours to descend.
What are all the optional hikes?
You can hike onto Fuego (the active volcano) after reaching base camp on Day 1. This usually is an additional fee and takes 4 hours total. On Day 2, there is a sunrise hike to Acatenango summit for free. The optional sunrise hike takes around 2 hours total. There is also a short “hike” to sunset on Acatenango for free, but it’s basically a 5-minute walk.
Where do you sleep overnight?
Your tour group will have a base camp with cabins and sleeping bags.
Do you have to go with a tour group? Which do you recommend?
For safety reasons, you should go with a tour group. There are tons of tour groups for Acatenango, and we were ultimately between Wicho & Charlie’s, Ox Expeditions, and V-Hiking. We ended up choosing V-Hiking as they offered direct transfers to Lake Atitlán after the hike. I liked that they were a local business and had access to lower-traffic trails. They messed up my dietary restrictions but were very apologetic. If you want vegan meals specifically, I would go with Wicho & Charlie’s.
Hiking Acatenango with V-Hiking
Pre-hike
V-Hiking picks us up at a meeting spot in Antigua at around 7am. We ride for an hour in a sprinter van to reach the founder of the tour group’s house. Elvin, the founder, welcomes us and his team serves us breakfast. We even meet his mother!
They give us a quick talk and then we rent any gear we need before loading up the vans. My friend and I get poles since we didn’t want to bring them in our packs the whole trip (you usually can’t carry them on planes).
The ride to the trailhead is short and Elvin tells us that V-Hiking has access to a private trail that starts us up higher and cuts off some elevation gain.
Hiking to base camp
The hike starts in a rainforest-like environment and there are unique plants like the Devil’s Hand Tree, which looks exactly as it sounds. The stamens of the flower look like devil’s hands and are super creepy.
There are around 30 of us, and we split into 3 groups. My friend Hana and I go with the first group and trail towards the end of it.
After around 2 hours of climbing, we reach a stopping point with drinks and snacks, which will be the last and only spot to buy refreshments before base camp (we had to carry all our water, and they recommended 3L per person).
The climate changes after we reach the cloud line, and we’re greeted by a drier forest with evergreens. There are 2 more hours of climbing, and then we reach base camp. The cabins hold about 3 people and are big enough only for sleeping bags. The toilets are outhouses with large buckets in the ground. I have stomach problems all night, which I later learn can be caused by the altitude.
We have our packed lunch, which is rice and vegetables, and to my chagrin, chicken (I pre-ordered a veggie meal). Luckily, my friend eats my chicken and gives me some of her vegetables, but I’m in a sour mood from the mixup. (The tour owner later gave me a refund of the meal when I let him know).
The view of Fuego, the active volcano, is a beautiful distraction though, and we sit and watch the smoke from the several eruptions all afternoon. Part of the group leaves for the optional hike onto Fuego, which takes an additional 4 hours total and costs 200 quetzales (~26USD). We stay behind since we’re already exhausted from the hike to base camp, and we want to try to do the sunrise hike to Acatenango summit tomorrow morning.
Sunset hike
We get to see the sunset from Acatenango while half the group is away on Fuego, and it’s stunning. The sunset viewpoint is only a 5-minute walk from base camp, and several other groups are already waiting.
The sun sets in the clouds next to Fuego, and the golden light reflects on all of our faces of awe. The best view, however, is the blue to pink gradient over Agua Volcano.
I bother my friend to snap a few photos, and we try to find our footing on the uneven and steep ground.
After fifteen minutes or so of the golden light, it starts getting colder and darker, so we head back. Fuego continues to erupt and we watch it while sipping hot chocolate and eating dinner. Dinner was only vegetables and pasta for folks with dietary restrictions, so I ask for a double portion after the lunch fiasco and they kindly oblige.
Sunrise hike
I go to bed around 8pm since we have to leave at 3:45am for the sunrise hike. It’s freezing in the tiny cabins, and a bit difficult to sleep with the booming eruptions. I sleep very lightly and clock in around 5 hours total.
My friend and I almost skip the sunrise hike, but we motivate each other to go. It’s pitch black and the trail is extremely slippery from the small volcanic rocks. We start in front but step back to bring it up in the rear.
It takes 1.5 hours to reach the summit, where it’s even colder. The wind bites and we try to sit on the ground to catch less of the wind. I wish I had ski pants and an extra winter coat, but all I have is my thin packable puffer and winter running joggers.
Fuego continues to erupt, but we’re too cold to take many photos. When the sun finally rises over Agua Volcano, it’s a bit anticlimactic, but I do admire the fiery orange light and pink gradients in the sky.
The hike down is quick but treacherous—basically like skiing through the steep lanes of pebbles. We’re last in the group again, but finally make it down to base camp for a quick snack before packing our bags to descend all the way down.
My friend and I decide that we don’t regret the hike, but we wouldn’t recommend it since you can see sunrise perfectly fine from base camp.
Descending again
The descent is nothing notable, as we go back the way we came, skipping the snack/pit stop. It takes 2.5 hours in a straight shot. Our legs hurt, but we’re relieved to make it down, where it’s much warmer, and breakfast awaits us.
We scarf up the traditional Guatemalan breakfast of beans, tortillas, plantains, cheese, and fruit. Even though I don’t like coffee, I even drink a tiny amount for energy.
We head back to Elvin’s house, pack our bags, return our gear, and hop into the van for Panajachel with a handful of others. The rest of the group heads back to Antigua.
We’re exhausted but grateful to have had the experience, and we make sure to schedule a massage for the next day. Similar to how I feel after a marathon, I was sore for several days afterwards. This wasn’t something that just cleared up in a day or two. Make sure to take it easy the week after!
Tips for Hiking Acatenango
If you’re planning to embark on this trip, here are the things I wish I’d known beforehand!
1. It’s ok to stay at base camp.
While most of the group does either the optional Fuego hike or Acatenango sunrise hike, they’re not necessary. You get amazing views from base camp. Plus, if you’re not typically active, the extra hikes are likely too much to handle and you may end up hurt or sick.
In my opinion, most non-sedentary people can do the hike to base camp, but the extra hikes are another question.
Don’t feel bad or have FOMO if you just stay at base camp as it’s already an incredible experience!
2. Bring snacks, especially if you have dietary restrictions.
I brought multiple snacks already, but I wish I’d brought more protein given that my tour company seemed to practice elimination instead of replacement for dietary restrictions (just getting rid of the meat instead of replacing it with beans or something). My gluten-free friend had a similar problem when the chicken at night was breaded and the snack in the morning was banana bread.
Make sure to take protein bars, chips, dried fruit—anything to keep you energized and full.
3. Pack multiple layers, especially for the optional hikes.
I only had one bottom layer and I wish I’d had two (leggings and joggers over the top). I also wouldn’t have minded an additional layer on top even though I already had a thermal turtleneck, fleece, and packable puffer. The other thing I was happy my friend brought were hand warmers. They were a lifesaver at night!
Here’s my Acatenango packing guide if you need more suggestions.
Let me know if you have any comments or questions, and have a fantastic hike!
