Is Mer de Glace Worth Visiting? It Depends

Chamonix’s Mer de Glace (sea of ice) is France’s largest glacier, clocking in at 7km (4.3mi) long and 200m (600ft) deep.

It’s a popular tourist destination with a pretty steep price of 50€ when you take the Montenvers train. So, here’s my honest review after having visited myself, hiking one way and taking the train out.

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FAQs about Visiting Mer de Glace

How do you get there?
You can hike or take the Montenvers train. I personally did the Grand Balcon Nord Hike one way and took the Montenvers train back to Chamonix.

How much does it cost?
It costs around 50 euros total for the train ticket, gondola ride down, and entry to the Mer de Glace. You can also buy the Mont Blanc Summer Multipass for around 100 euros, which also includes Aiguille du Midi.

My Mer de Glace Review

I was personally not that impressed by Mer de Glace; in fact, I found it a bit depressing. The glacier has receded significantly over the years, and while the gondola takes you partway, you have to descend around 580 steps to reach the cave (and then climb back up them).

Along the way, you can see markings of where the glacier used to be. It’s a really stark reminder of climate change.

The cave itself is also pretty small and plain. Sometimes there are ice sculptures and thrones, and other times not. There was an ice bench when I visited, but it was roped off. There were also some informational plaques about the glacier’s history.

The turquoise ice was pretty, but I was a bit underwhelmed after all the effort to reach the cave, especially after a long hike.

I do think it makes sense to leave the glacier as untouched as possible, however. It wouldn’t be right to decorate a natural formation in elaborate ways like the instagram-famous ice castles around the world.

I would certainly not do the hike from the city to the cave, but I think the Montenvers train ride is pleasant, and it could be fun to visit the cave with kids since it will see bigger and more impressive to them. It would also be a good opportunity to teach them about climate change.

It’s also an easy spot to tack on if you are doing the Grand Balcon Nord hike one way, as you’ll need to take the train back to town anyways.

This was my itinerary using the Mont Blanc Multipass:

• Early morning: visit Aiguille du Midi
• Late morning: have a snack at Plan de l’Aiguille (middle stop of Aiguille du Midi) + start Grand Balcon Nord Hike
• Afternoon: reach Montenvers and visit Mer de Glace
• Late afternoon: return to Chamonix on the Montenvers train

Overall, I wouldn’t go out of my way to go Mer de Glace, unless you want an easier family day trip and chance to teach kids about climate change.

Tips for Visiting Mer de Glace

1. Be ready for stairs with few break spots and little shade.

This is not a breezy walk. As an active person, I was tired, especially at the end of my hike before. The staircases and walkways are also pretty exposed to the sun, so make sure to wear sunscreen and a hat.

2. Bring a jacket.

The cave is cold and wet. I would recommend at least bringing a jacket so you’re not too chilly, but there were some people inside in just a t-shirt.

3. Take a break if you do a hike before.

At Montenvers, there’s a refuge (mountain hut) where you can grab a snack. I regret not stopping for longer and going straight into the descent to Mer de Glace. I also saw many people picnicking on the lawns.

There are also no bathrooms once you start taking the stairs down to the cave, so make sure to use the restroom beforehand. I also remember getting pretty thirsty, so be sure to have a full bottle in your pack.

Let me know if you visit Mer de Glace and what you thought!